Tsunoshima is an island on the Sea of Japan side of Yamaguchi, reached by a bridge that can be crossed on foot or by bicycle. Once over, the island offers a granite lighthouse with a spiral staircase to climb, a walking path around the cape at Makizaki, and the clear cobalt blue water of Ohama beach. A seafood bowl called Tsunoshima don is served at the shop and dining complex in the central part of the island, so the meal is part of the plan rather than an afterthought.

Tsunoshima Bridge: Crossing the Turquoise Water

Tsunoshima Bridge can be crossed on foot or by bicycle, with the blue sea in view and the sea breeze the whole way. Before the bridge existed, reaching the island meant taking a ferry, which makes the slow crossing on foot or by bicycle its own kind of arrival.

On sunny summer days the blue of the sea, the white of the road and the green of the island stand in contrast. The bridge changes its appearance many times a day as it leads across the emerald green sea, a reason to cross more than once when the day allows.

Aerial view of a long, thin bridge running across shallow turquoise water to an island, with a white sand spit and grassy shore in the foreground.

The car park in front of the bridge is free at any time of day. If you have time for one pass at the bridge, make it a morning one to avoid congestion, then walk or cycle across to watch the colour of the water change.

A concrete bridge curving toward a small wooded island across calm blue sea, with pink morning glory flowers in the foreground.

Tsunoshima Lighthouse: Granite Tower and Spiral Stairs

Tsunoshima Lighthouse was designed by the British engineer R. H. Brunton, and it is a Western-style lighthouse built entirely of granite that is still in service, so the stone you climb belongs to a working tower.

A view down from a hill onto a white lighthouse on a green headland, with a car park, low buildings and turquoise sea along the coast behind.
© 4510waza / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0

The narcissus around the lighthouse are in season from late January to mid-February. White narcissus sway in the sea breeze with the lighthouse behind them, and a faint, sweet scent drifts around the tower as you walk the surrounding ground.

A grey stone lighthouse tower seen from a low angle above a grassy slope with white narcissus flowers in the foreground and a few visitors near the base.
© nanamori / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0

Inside, the tower is also granite cut stone, with a spiral staircase of one hundred and five steps built together with the outer wall. The climb finishes with a ladder, and the observation deck gives a three hundred and sixty degree panorama of the Sea of Japan.

Entry to the tower is accepted up to twenty minutes before the end of visiting time, so the climb cannot be left to the very end. Visitors comfortable with one hundred and five steps and a ladder get the panorama from the top; those who would rather stay on the ground can still see the tower rising behind the narcissus in their season.

A white lighthouse tower on a green headland behind a slope of white flowers under a bright blue sky with large clouds.

Makizaki, Yumezaki and Ohama Beach

Tsunoshima takes its name from its two capes, Makizaki and Yumezaki, jutting out like the horns of an ox. Around them are parks suited to strolling, and a walking path at Makizaki Kaze Park circles the cape.

One park has flower beds made to suggest waves, where native hamayu, daruma-giku, narcissus and hamahirugao bloom through the year, and daruma-giku grows wild at Makizaki Kaze Park. Hamayu is in bloom from mid-July to early August, its white, highly fragrant flowers coming out against the deep blue sea.

Pale purple daisy-like flowers with yellow centres in the foreground and a rocky headland with sunlit sea beyond.

Ohama has clear cobalt blue water and white sand made of small shells, fine and smooth; waves can be heard and the sea wind blows across the beach. The sunset over the Sea of Japan can be seen from the beach, and the camp site there allows barbecue.

A curve of white sand beach beside clear turquoise shallows, with a small green island and a long low bridge on the horizon under a pale blue sky.
© Project Kei / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0

Crossing the island by car from one end to the other takes about ten minutes. So a short visit can still pair the walking path at Makizaki with the sunset at Ohama; with more time, cycles and a tuktuk drive are slower ways around. Guided outings in and around Tsunoshima are listed under experiences around Tsunoshima.

Seafood Bowls and Souvenirs at Shiokaze no Sato

Shiokaze no Sato has a dining area looking over the Sea of Japan under bare round log beams, and its Shiokaze set meal brings sashimi, a simmered dish, miso soup, rice, a side dish and pickles.

The Tsunoshima don is the seafood bowl, the sazae turban-shell rice set pairs sazae takikomi rice with isomidori udon, and the Musashi don combines fugu tempura and kalbi, plus a fugu tempura bowl and a sashimi assortment.

The souvenir hall sells Tsunoshima imo shochu from island-grown sweet potatoes, bottled sea urchin landed in Hohoku town, aonori yokan from Awano River aonori, and island-grown vegetables. Grilled seafood is on offer mainly on Saturdays, Sundays, public holidays and during the summer holidays.

The dining area takes orders until three in the afternoon. With no convenience store on the island, anyone staying for Ohama's sunset should eat here beforehand and buy shochu, sea urchin or yokan at the same stop. If you would rather stay overnight, places to stay around Tsunoshima is a place to start.

Getting to Tsunoshima

LegHowTime or fare
Takibe Station to Oyama Ikoi-no-ieBlue Line Kotsu bus fare630 yen
Kottoi Station to Oyama Ikoi-no-ieBlue Line Kotsu bus fare470 yen
Within TsunoshimaBlue Line Kotsu bus fare160 yen flat
Takibe Station to the lighthouse park stopBusAbout 40 minutes
Kottoi Station to the lighthouse park stopBusAbout 25 minutes
Shimonoseki IC to TsunoshimaCarAbout 70 minutes
Ozuki IC to TsunoshimaCarAbout 60 minutes
Tsunoshima Bridge to the lighthouse areaCarAbout 5 minutes
Shimonoseki Station to Tsunoshima BridgeCarAbout 1 hour 20 minutes
Driving back toward Honshu on long holidays and in the summer vacationCarOften congested; guide peak 13:30 to 15:00

Children pay half the adult fare. Transport IC cards cannot be used on Blue Line Kotsu buses.

Hours and Fees

PlaceWhatHours or fee
Tsunoshima LighthouseHours, March to September9:00 to 17:00
Tsunoshima LighthouseHours, October to February9:00 to 16:30
Tsunoshima LighthouseAdmission, junior high school and older300 yen
Tsunoshima LighthouseLast entry20 minutes before closing
Tsunoshima Nature CentreHours9:00 to 16:30
Tsunoshima Nature CentreClosing dayTuesdays
Tsunoshima Nature CentreEntrance donation200 yen
Shiokaze no Sato dining areaHours10:00 to 15:30, last order 15:00
Shiokaze no Sato dining areaClosing dayWednesdays
Electric-assist cycleHire, up to 2 hours410 yen
Tuktuk driveOne hour, per vehicle4,180 yen

Where to stay

Places to stay near Tsunoshima, Yamaguchi, Japan →

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